FAQ … frequently asked questions, and what we do at Keys4Classics.com
Use the INQUIRY PAGE to contact us if you are interested in our keys-cut-to-code service. Or just email us with at least these details -Your Name, Your Country e.g. USA, Vehicle (make, model, year), Do you have existing keys? What replacements are you inquiring about? Will you attach photos of your keys to this email?

Where key codes are not known we can decode most keys from a few emailed photos.
Specialize in keys for cars and motorcycles mostly 1960s-70s-80s-90s from all parts of Europe (especially Germany, Italy, and Great Britain) and also from Japan.

We do not need you to send your keys, or locks, just a few good photos of existing keys should be fine. Keep your keys safe! We just need good photos, not the keys.
We do not deal with most North American automobile or motorcycle makes, maybe except when foreign locks were fitted.
We do not sell any automotive parts other than keys and keys services.
Key and lock manufacturers compile a database of all the cutting sequences or patterns on their keys. Each sequence is allocated a "code" or group of numbers and/or letters to represent it.
Codes can vary widely, but most automotive key codes are quite brief, either numbers alone or a letter or two and a short number.
If you know the key type and have a key code then new keys can be produced, identical to the original key specifications. So even 30, 40, 50 or more years after the original keys were manufactured you will have an accurate, perfect new key.
All keys with code series available to us have a known geometry of the number of cuts and their spacing along the key, and the depth of each cut. With that knowledge we interpret a key and deduce its original specifications.
Even if you have the codes you should send us key photos so we can verify the code against the key's cuts (there is no cost for this if the code you provided is correct).
A hand-made key (filed or cut by hand to fit a lock) can be the greatest challenge, it's more a work of "art" than "science" and is not always able to be decoded within a reasonable time (or at a reasonable cost).
After we have inspected your key photos we will confirm if it can be decoded.
If you have an original owner's manual or other documents look for a notation, often hand-written. Sometimes an original dealer or owner noted the key codes.
Have you got a code-tag or card which came with the original keys? Or marked on a sticker or plate inside the glovebox, on or near the steering column, etc.
Some locks have the code marked on them. Visibly on the front face (older classics), or not so visible under the front face plate or surround plate, on the body of the lock or even inside the lock. Trunk and door locks are easier to access, but it's not an easy option for most vehicles.
For a marking on a lock to be an individual key code it will *not* be raised numbers/letters. That will be a moulded mark common to a whole batch of locks. The key code is usually stamped into the metal.
For more recent years, try an authorized dealer. Some makes keep a database, using your VIN or chassis number the dealer can tell you your key code. For older British classic cars, and some others, there are archives that can help (for a fee).
Finally there is our own decoding service. We can decode most keys from a few photos of your existing key (a fee applies). Decoding is available only as part of an order for cut keys.
Before cutting keys we ensure that the code you provide to us is valid for the key type, make, model and year. However we cannot say 100% that it is correct for your lock without seeing a photo of an existing key that works well in the locks.
Here are some reasons why key codes may not be correct: locks have been replaced or re-keyed; dealer records are incorrect; handwriting or stamped numbers cannot be read clearly; etc.
A photo of an existing key is the only sure way for us to know that a key code is correct for that key. If the key in your photo works your locks, then our keys will also (that's our money-back guarantee).
Copying a key (such as at a shopping mall kiosk) involves tracing your existing key on to a new blank. A good service will produce a good copy but a sloppy operator, or worn/cheap machinery etc, will produce a poor copy.
Even a good copy will never be as good as an original key was when new. Wear is copied. Imperfections are copied. And each 'generation' of copying produces a worse key. The widespread use of brass aftermarket keys also ensures that copied keys wear fast and become unsuitable to act as patterns for making further copies.
A code-cut key that's kept in a safe place will still be perfect for many years to come as a pattern for making duplicated copies.
2. Keys cut to a key code that you provide, and checked against a photo that you send us (*there is no fee for checking*) are fully guaranteed to work in your locks
3. Keys cut to a code which we derive by decoding your key from a photo (*a fee may apply for decoding*) are fully guaranteed to work in your locks.
The key blank used - economy, regular, all-metal or black-head, premium, original-OEM.
Cutting - one edge or more? And difficult or hard-material keys cost more.
Decoding, if required - the fee depends on the complexity. Some decoding shows as zero cost (included in the cut keys price). Checking the code of your key with a code you already have is absolutely free, unless they do not match and decoding is required.
Quantity - we give a very good discount for multiple keys cut to the same code, or mixed keys cut to various codes, it depends on how many you want.
valet (garage attendant) keys
It's a key that will operate all the locks on the one car, as opposed to a valet or garage-attendant key that will open the door and start the engine, but not open the vehicle's glovebox or trunk.
Only some cars have a valet key option, it became popular in the 1980s-90s. Before that they simply used entirely different keys for all or some of the ignition/doors/trunk/glovebox (that's why your 1960s or earlier classic has so many keys…)
vs cut keys
OEM (original keys)
vs aftermarket
OEM = original equipment manufacturer, in theory that's the maker who produces the keys and locks for the vehicle. A specialized contractor such as Neiman, Huf, Ymos, SAFE, DOM, and that brand may appear on the key and/or with the vehicle maker's name or logo. These days the term OEM has got a little looser and we see keys being sold as OEM when their provenance (origin) and relationship to the marque is unclear.
Our definition? ORIGINAL keys are the keys that originally came with the vehicle OR that same key manufacturer still supplying those keys, while OEM has a relationship with the marque but may not be the original key maker.
AFTERMARKET - most of our keys are made by and branded Silca-Italy, they're very high quality keys which generally appear similar to the originals, but have no vehicle name or logo.
KEYS4CLASSICS.COM (KEYSFORCLASSICS.COM)
We provide the highest quality keys and key services for classic mid-to-late 20th century vehicles
YOU NEVER NEED TO SEND US YOUR KEYS. WE WORK FROM EMAILED PHOTOS.
Important note: We do not deal with modern keys that use electronics (transponder keys), which is most vehicles from about the late 1990s.
Also, we do not supply general automotive parts. We are simply experts with keys for older vehicles.
Keys4Classics.com is located in Canberra, the capital city of Australia.
Proudly working with classic car and motorcycle owners worldwide since 2001…!
